Don’t be fooled by expensive brand names when it comes to skincare. That’s what got me started on this project in the first place!
All luxury skincare brands will promote their 0.5-0.1% of active ingredients (however, being the luxury brands they are, will take advantage of their advertising, and distract you from the not so dazzling ingredients included within their basic formulas. MOST skincare brands ingredients list use the same 99% of The only thing that differentiates them is brand name, price point, packaging, and their 1% active ‘key’ ingredients. Otherwise, it’s pretty straight forward when it comes to formulas. It’s not uncommon for these moisturizers to have up to 75 different ingredients, when it only takes six ingredients to make a great moisturizer!
By law, all ingredients are published by order of volume. The INCI list (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) can be overwhelming, as all the ingredients get lost within their official INCI names, amidst all the other ‘unpronounceable & unknown’ compounds. Most consumers don’t read the ingredients list as it’s too difficult to interpret, especially when you have to Google ingredients like “Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine” . Usually, one thing that’s predictable for skincare is that you’ll see Aqua/Water listed as one of the top ingredients and the very last ingredient being the preservative.
Why do these companies hire chemists to create their expensive formulas? Because when it comes to expectations, their products need to perform, i.e. lather nicely, rub onto your skin smoothly, smell amazing, and keep your skin from drying up within half an hour of application. They will use whatever necessary to maintain those expectations.
Personally, I prefer using MY OWN products because I know exactly what went into them!
Fragrances
Unlike other fragrances on the market, we’ll always reveal the essential oils used to create our fragrances. If our fragrance blend is 99% natural and 1% synthetic, we’ll tell you. Most perfume houses create blends where the percentage ratio of synthetics to natural oils is very high. For example, Musk is synthetic. It’s illegal to use genuine musk oil (which is good because we don’t like animals to suffer). If you ever see “strawberry cheesecake” as the fragrance listed, that’s obviously synthetic.
Essential oils (EOs) are a substance extracted from the seeds, flowers, leaves, roots, stems, or bark of plants, typically through steam distillation, expression, or extraction. You’ll often spot them in perfumes, soaps, cosmetics, household cleaners, incense, and other similar products. Because they contain the fragrance of the plant from which they are derived, essential oils are used in a variety of scent-related applications like perfumes, flavorings, cosmetics, household cleaners, and medicines.
Fragrance oils (FOs) are a combination of essential oils and synthetic aroma chemicals. Like EOs, FOs are used in a variety of different applications to scent consumer products. When it comes to candle fragrances, unlike EOs, FOs are sold by candle suppliers and formulated with specific purposes in mind, like candle making. These FOs are intended to be burned, and so are generally better than EOs at retaining the integrity and strength of the aroma while it is burning in a candle.
After mixing essential oil blends for the last nine years…..
…I’ve become jaded when it comes to synthetic fragrances. On the rare occasion when I do try out the perfume testers in the department stores, they literally all smell the same to me, with slight variations of YUCK or DISGUSTING. Once you get accustomed to essential oils and absolutes, it’s hard to appreciate any synthetic concoctions being sold at department store beauty counters!
If you’re ever shopping for a scented candle, and it’s marketed as, “vanilla latte” guess what? Most likely SYNTHETIC. Unless of course, they actually used vanilla & coffee absolutes, which I doubt. Unless you’re getting that candle from an independent candle boutique. If you’re not sure, the scent will usually give away its artificial vibe right away. Just to be sure, if that candle is being sold at Target, Walmart or Safeway, RUN!!! Our goal is to primarily focus on organic essential oils, absolutes, and extracts. If we absolutely need one drop of “mango” to compliment any tropical blends, we may use it, but we’ll disclose that to you.
Currently, some of my favorite perfume houses are LE LABO and HERETIC.
I’ve never tried Michelle Pheiffer’s brand HENRY ROSE, but I’m sure it’s great. (Update) I tested 12 different scents from Henry Rose and discovered they are “safe synthetics” which explained the “standard perfume smell” and after awhile, they all smelled the same to me.
kelli kline ingredients list
Distilled Water water that’s been distilled, where impurities, bacteria, etc. are boiled out.
Glycerin a vegetable glycerin is a humectant (glycerol/glycerine) is a viscous, syrupy clear liquid made from soybean, coconut, or palm oils. The byproduct was discovered more than two centuries ago. It also has emulsifying properties to help oil and water mix smoothly.
Jojoba Oil a carrier oil that matches your own skin’s natural sebum levels, rates level 2 on non-comedogenic scale (good)
Argan Oil a carrier oil that strengthens your skin barrier, improves skin elasticity, contains vitamin E, and rates 0 (excellent) on the non-comedogenic scale. Argan is one of the best oils to incorporate into facial products.
Apricot Oil a carrier oil that initiates skin regeneration process & stimulates collagen production, low comedogenic rating of 2
Avocado Oil a carrier oil rich in fatty acids and a good source of vitamins A and E, which are linked to skin membrane health
Meadowfoam Seed Oil an emollient that balances sebum production, protects skin barrier from toxins & pollution
Hempseed Oil a carrier oil that repairs the skin barrier, protects against free radicals, non-comedogenic rating of 0, contains Omega 6 & 3 fatty acids
Grapeseed Oil carrier oil that contains high amounts of fatty acids: linoleic acid 69.6%, oleic acid 15.8%, palmitic acid 7% and stearic acid 4%, improves the skin’s elasticity and softness.
Rosehip Oil a carrier oil that contains retinol (Vitamin A) reduces signs of aging, smooths fine lines, thickens the dermis (leaving skin firm and tighter)
Evening Primrose carrier oil that contains powerful antioxidants, protection from free radicals, maintains elasticity and firmness, natural emollient (softening & smoothing the skin)
Prickly Pear Oil a carrier oil originating from prickly pear cactus fruit, a natural plant emollient, deeply hydrating, eases inflammation & skin irritation, skin balancing, high in vitamin E & non-comedogenic.
Pomegranate Seed Oil Pomegranate Seed CO2 (carrier) oil is a highly nourishing, supersaturated omega-5 fatty acid for the skin, and gives a thick, rich and luxurious feel to the oil. In topical preparations, it supports the elasticity of the skin and may improve the appearance of aging and sun-exposure.
Creosote Oil this carrier oil provides the nostalgic, musky fragrance known as petrichor (the scent after a desert monsoon) originating from the creosote bush (Larrea tridentata) of the Sonoran desert.
Sweet Almond Oil a carrier oil that boosts collagen levels, reduces appearance of scars & wrinkles,
Cetearyl Alcohol a waxy white solid that occurs naturally in plants: coconut, palm, corn, & soy; a mixture of cetyl alcohol & stearyl alcohol (an emollient) for use as emulsifier and stabilizer.
BTMS-25 a plant based emulsifier with the added emolliency of cetearyl alcohol, for softening & smoothing your skin.
Stearic Acid a thickener/hardener that’s a solid saturated fatty acid (obtained from vegetable fats like coconut oil, palm oil, cocoa butter) with emollient properties to smoothen skin and lock in moisture (humectant).
Witch Hazel Extract an anti-bacterial & natural emulsifier for o/w (oil in water) formulas & an anti-inflammatory, excellent for oily skin (reduces acne) and provides a refreshingly cooling effect on the skin.
Alcohol Denat an emulsifier for w/o (water in oil) formulas (perfume formulas) where alcohol has been “denatured”, making it unable to ingest (we don’t want anyone drinking perfume due to it’s alcohol content)
Activated Charcoal As well as drawing out dirt and toxins, activated charcoal can also draw out oil from your skin. This means that less oil is built up and your skin can perform better at combating breakouts. Another benefit is that activated charcoal creates a mattified effect, as opposed to the shiny effect caused by oily skin.
Kaolin Clay Because of its unique molecular structure, kaolin has the ability to absorb deep-seated impurities like dirt, grime and pollution. It gives skin a deep cleanse — however, unlike some other clays, it doesn’t dry out the skin, making it incredibly useful for those with a dry complexion.
Blackberry Extract Blackberry extract is a powerhouse of antioxidants used in skincare products due to its moisturizing and skin-healing properties. It is also used to improve skin complexion and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Rasberry Extract Research has indicated that this extract can prevent UVB-caused cell death and protect the skin against UVB-exposed injury manifested by wrinkling, scaling, tanning, and water loss as well as epidermal thickening (NCBI, 2019). Raspberries have one of the highest ORAC values (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity) which protects your skin from free radicals. The anti-inflammatory properties reduce inflammation, redness, and irritation. Raspberry Extracts can help reduce the signs of aging as antioxidants help reverse the damage caused by exposure to free radicals, and a lot of that damage appears as signs of aging: wrinkles, flatter, and more transparent skin, and age spots.
Liquid Germall Plus A non-paraben water-soluble liquid preservative (that we use for all our products).
PLANT BASED BUTTERS
Shea Butter derived from the shea nut of shea tree of West Africa, an emollient that softens skin and contains several fatty acids like lineoleic, oleic, palmitic and stearic acids) wonderful natural butter —–(avoid if you have allergy to latex)
Mango Butter oil extracted from the seeds of mango trees of India/Asia regions, an excellent moisturizer for dry & sensitive skin (contains more fatty acids than shea butter)
Cocoa Butter Cocoa butter is an emollient and humectant. Research indicates the topical application of cocoa polyphenols have been shown to have a positive effect on skin elasticity, which is your skin’s ability to stretch and return to its former shape. Cocoa butter’s moisturizing benefits can show temporarily plump the skin with hydration, making fine lines and wrinkles less visible.
EO’s ESSENTIAL OILS (in our inventory)
MINTY: spearmint, peppermint, and wintergreen
CITRUS: orange, lemon, tangerine, grapefruit, lime, neroli, and bergamot
HERBAL NOTES: lavender, thyme, sage, basil, and sweet fennel
CAMPHOR: eucalyptus, fragonia, tea tree, lemongrass, citronella
FRUITY NOTES (unfortunately these tend to be synthetic) apple, berry, mango, peach, banana, pineapple
MARINE seaweed absolute, woodsy notes, and earthy notes.
GOURMAND chocolate (cocoa absolute) honey(beeswax) vanilla (vanilla absolute) caramel, coffee (coffee bean C02) and bitter almond (cherry)
FLORAL: gardenia, tuberose, orange blossom, rose otto, rose absolute, Bulgarian rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, palmarosa, German chamomile, Roman chamomile, geranium, lilac accord, boronia, magnolia (red champaca)
SPICY NOTES: cinnamon, clove, anise star, black pepper, ginger, cardamom, myrrh, oregano, frankincense, helichrysm, tobacco absolute.
RESINOUS NOTES. benzoin, amber, amyris, osthmanthus
WOODSY NOTES: atlas cedarwood, sandalwood, balsam fir, pine needle, palo santo, cypress, spruce, juniper berry, agarwood (oud)
EARTHY NOTES patchouli, oak moss, and vetiver
ABSOLUTES
Absolutes are essential oils that are extracted by two methods, CO2 and solvent (hexane) scent is much more concentrated, richer, deeper. The difference is easily noted when you compare Rose Otto to Rose Absolute. i.e. Violet Absolute, Vanilla Absolute, Seaweed Absolute, Rose Absolute, Tobacco Absolute, Cocoa Absolute & Mimosa Absolute
HYDROSOLS
HYDROSOLS are a by product of steam distillation while extracting the oils. For example, rose water & rose hydrosol are different! Water with rose oil added is “rose water” and rose hydrosol is a direct byproduct from the distillation process of the rose petals. i.e. Cucumber Hydrosol, Watermelon Hydrosol, Rose Hydrosol
EMULSIFIERS
Emulsifiers are essential when it comes to mixing oils and water. Lotion wouldn’t exist with out them. There are many kinds of emulsifiers but we only use the following: BTMS-25 (emollient & emulsifier) Stearic Acid, and Cetyl Alcohol.
Alcohol Denat This is a widely used element for emulsifying water into the essential oil formulas. It’s used in all perfume blends with a range from 3% dilution (cologne strength) up to 35% dilution (perfume)
Witch Hazel Extract we use this for our aromatherapy mist spray fragrance line which assists mixing the essentials oils with water.
SYNTHETIC FRAGRANCES
SYNTHETIC FRAGRANGES are used @ less than 0.05% dilution (for our tropical blends)
We prefer not using synthetics or what kelli likes to refer to as “artificial bullshit” but once in awhile, just one drop of “mango” can really transform that tropical accord we’re striving for. Typically, our mist sprays have 30 drops of essential oil per 30 ml bottle, which is a 5% dilution blend. 5% oils to 95% water. 90% of our products have only pure EO’s (essential oils) but some of our blends may include 1-2 drops of synthetic with organic essential oils as the fragrance base.
SYNTHETICS ARE basically anything that cannot be distilled, such as: chocolate cake, vanilla lattes, strawberry cheesecake, banana bread, etc. They’re fragrance elements that cannot be successfully extracted, such as LILAC BLOSSOM, my favorite scent in the entire world! Now if I can find a high quality synthetics that don’t smell like cheap varnish or nail polish remover, please let me know!!
I know I’m getting the real deal when I order from Eden Botanicals.
I’ve also ordered “absolutes” from NatureinaBottle (based in India) and even though their website has all the the right certifications & content, I’m still questioning their claims of legitimacy. So many fragrance companies say their essential oils are pure (not artificial) but the quality (the scent) and their price point usually give it away.
PRESERVATIVES
Preservatives are essential when making skincare and cosmetic products, otherwise they would only last a few days in your fridge before turning moldy. We WANT the best, least harmful preservative in our products. Every batch of skincare is unique, depending on what specific ingredients are contained within the formula. One batch of lotion may last nine months without issue, while another batch may only last for five months before going stale.
We do NOT use any paraben related preserves such as: Methyl-paraben, Isobutyl-paraben, propyl-paraben, butyl-paraben, and ethyl-paraben.
WHAT ARE PARABENS?
Parabens are endocrine disruptor and cancer causing agents in certain groups of preservatives, that have been widely used in various cosmetic and personal care products for their antimicrobial properties.
Vitamin E Oil is a natural preservative but should NOT be used as the primary option for preserving a formula. Vitamin E or the standard INCI Name known as Tocopherol, is helpful for having essential oils retain their scent for much longer.
WE USE a non-paraben preservative called Liquid German Plus (water soluble). Liquid Germall Plus is a patented combination of 39.60% Diazolidinyl Urea (DU), 0.40% Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate (IPBC) and 60% Propylene Glycol. It is a broad spectrum, non- paraben antimicrobial with enhanced efficacy at low levels. It is effective against Gram-negative and Gram-positive bacteria, yeasts, and molds
WHAT ARE SULFATES?
Commonly included WITHIN SURFACTANTS, which create the bubbles and lathering that you expect when using liquid soap, shampoo, or bubble bath oils.
List of Sulfates to Avoid:
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS)
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA)
- Sodium Coco Sulfate (SCS)
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
WHAT ARE PHTHALATES?
Fragrances: Phthalates are frequently used as solvents and fixatives in fragrances, helping the scent to last longer. They can be present in perfumes, colognes, body sprays, and scented lotions. Skincare Products: While phthalates are not typically intentionally added to skincare products, they may be present as contaminants or impurities. Phthalates can find their way into products like lotions, creams, moisturizers, and serums during the manufacturing process. Makeup Products: Certain makeup items, including foundations, concealers, blushes, eyeshadows, and lipsticks, may contain phthalates. They can be used to enhance texture, improve spreadability, or prolong the shelf life of these products.
List of Phthalates to AVOID (basically anything you can’t pronounce)
- Diethyl phthalate (DEP)
- Dimethyl phthalate (DMP)
- Di-n-butyl phthalate (DBP)
- Diisobutyl phthalate (DIBP)
- Di-n-octyl phthalate (DnOP)
- Diisononyl phthalate (DINP)
- Diisodecyl phthalate (DIDP)
- Benzylbutyl phthalate (BBP)
EXFOLIANTS
Physical Exfoliants – You do NOT need to exfoliate daily. Limit to 1-2 times per week. By over-exfoliating your skin, you may be prematurely killing vital kerotinocytes in your skin that aren’t ready to shed yet! This may cause premature thinning of your epidermal layer (the outermost layer of your skin) which leads to less protection and more openings for premature wrinkles. Common forms of physical exfoliants include: apricot seeds, salt crystals, sugar crystals, or the dreaded AWFUL plastic microbes. NO WAY!
Chemical Exfoliants – i.e. Glycolic Acid, Salycic Acid, any AHA’s (alpha hydroxy acids)
ALCOHOLS
Here’s a SAFE LIST of plant and animal derived fatty alcohols : cetearyl, steararyl, cetyl and behenyl alcohol.
DECEPTIVE ADVERTISING
EXAMPLE OF DECEPTIVE Marketing Technique The following ‘ingredients label’ is misleading. Key Ingredients should not be listed at the TOP of the actual ingredients label.
EXAMPLE #1
Key Ingredients: Miracle Broth™, Lime Tea.
Formulated Without: Parabens, Phthlates
Ingredients: Algae Extract, Mineral Oil\Paraffinum Liquidum\Huile Minerale, Petrolatum, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Microcrystalline Wax\Cera Microcristallina\Cire Microcristalline, Lanolin Alcohol, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Peel Extract, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus (Eucalyptus) Leaf Oil, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Powder, Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Seed Powder, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal, Sodium Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Magnesium Sulfate, Paraffin, Tocopheryl Succinate, Niacin, Water\Aqua\Eau, Beta-Carotene, Decyl Oleate, Aluminum Distearate, Octyldodecanol, Citric Acid, Cyanocobalamin, Magnesium Stearate, Panthenol, Zea Mays (Corn) Oil, Limonene, Geraniol, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzyl Benzoate, Sodium Benzoate, Alcohol Denat., Fragrance (Parfum).
Notice how they put their active ingredients at the TOP of their ingredients label? This is deceptive to the average consumer , as active ingredients are usually only less than 0.01% of the entire formulation (as advertised on this Label of Creme de La Mer). Now it’s normal to advertise key/active ingredients highlighted on the front label, but with the example above, it’s deceptive and troubling.
THE CHEAPENING OF LUXURY BRANDS
Many brands will use cheaper carrier oils disguised within their “luxury” brand names.
Chanel uses Canola Oil in their $445 Sublimage La Creme 1 .7 oz.
La Mer uses mineral oil (derivative of petroleum oil) and alcohol denat in their $380 face cream.
La Prairie uses Sunflower Oil in their $595.00 Skin Caviar Luxe Cream
EXAMPLE #2
Let’s take a look at La Prairie’S Skin Cavier Luxe Cream of 1.7 oz. for $595.00
Naturally, they highlight the “key ingredients” on their website.
KEY INGREDIENTS
Caviar premier
Caviar Micro-Nutrients
Exclusive Cellular Complex™
- FIRMING
- LIFTING
- NOURISHING
The new La Prairie Skin Caviar Luxe Cream helps support the skin’s metabolism and visibly restore the skin’s structure. Now, with daily application, Skin Caviar Luxe Cream works to lift the face skin and enhance its firmness and elasticity. Fine lines are reduced. Skin is smoothed, nourished and moisturized.
FOR THE LIFE OF ME, I COULD NOT LOCATE THE ACTUAL INCI INGREDIENTS LIST OF THE PRODUCT MENTIONED ON THEIR ACTUAL WEBSITE. IMAGINE THAT! I WENT TO INCI DECODER WEBSITE TO FIND OUT WHAT THEY PUT IN THAT PRODUCT.
LA PRAIRIE FORGOT TO MENTION THAT THEY ALSO INFUSED THIS $595 MOISTURIZER WITH PROPYLENE GLYCOL, XANTHUM GUM, CASTOR OIL, SUNFLOWER OIL AND YELLOW DYE #5.
It could take me at LEAST AN HOUR to decode the ingredients list, but I can guarantee you that I WILL NEVER NEED 75 ingredients to make a quality face cream! All you need are seven ingredients to make a high quality moisturizer.
BEWARE OF THE TERM FRAGRANCE
DISGUISED WITHIN THE PROPRIETARY TERM, “FRAGRANCE”
Some of the active ingredients are blended into their own version of ‘uniqueness’ and trademarked. When you see the word fragrance, just know that’s proprietary, and you have no idea what kind of sythentics are being used behind this. Fragrance is just another dirty word for DISGUISED INGREDIENTS. As in, we don’t want you to know what we used to create this scent, let alone any other undesirable chemical compounds we’ve used under the proprietary term, “fragrance”.
You don’t know if the popular perfumes you love so much have the majority of synthetics in their fragrance formula. For example, PERFUME A may have 65% synthetics and 35% natural oils. You will never know, because it’s proprietary. You’ll also be unaware of any other chemical compounds included within the fragrance formula to make it last longer. Base notes do this naturally, which is great.