breaking down the convoluted list of ingredients…..
key ingredients $125 PER 1 oz.
The Red Camellia is a flower unlike any other and the key ingredient at the heart of N°1 DE CHANEL. A flower with revitalizing powers, whose extraordinary energy gives it perennial youth. CHANEL Research has harnessed its exceptional properties to create next-generation products, including skincare, makeup and a fragrance mist. Red Camellia Extract targets the signs of the N°1 stage of skin’s aging process by helping to prevent and correct the appearance of the 5 signs of aging.
N°1 DE CHANEL REVITALIZING SERUM is infused with all forms of the camellia. Red Camellia Extract helps protect against oxidation caused by pollution while also addressing the appearance of the 5 signs of aging. Camellia Yeast Extract helps maintain skin’s barrier function, plus helps provide comfort and hydration. Camellia water delivers a feeling of freshness.
INCI list of ingredients (hidden by the way)
24 ingredients PLUS whatever may be in the proprietary fragrance formula…
CAMELLIA JAPONICA FLOWER WATER antioxidant
PROPANEDIOL (a chemical similar to Propylene Glycol, but thought to be safer) naturally derived from corn “A better alternative to formaldehyde” and “safe below certain thresholds” (WHO, 2020). But # 2 on the ingredients list?
GLYCERIN vegetable derived humectant
AQUA (WATER) self-explanatory
PENTYLENE GLYCOL for enhanced skin absorption “penetration enhancer”
SODIUM CITRATE flavoring agent and anticoagulant, controls pH levels, used as emulsifier
SODIUM POLYACRYLATE “waterlock” a polymer that can absorb 100-1000 times its mass in water
FAEX (YEAST EXTRACT)
COFFEA ARABICA (COFFEE) SEED OIL Purpose = hydrates the skin; the antioxidants and the caffeine in the oil help skin retain its elasticity.
CAMELLIA JAPONICA FLOWER EXTRACT
PARFUM (FRAGRANCE) god only knows.
CHLORPHENESIN Purpose: used as a preservative to inhibit contamination. It’s a SYNTHETIC preservative. It’s on Unacceptable STATUS according to SKINDEEP! Moderate Level 4 on the 1-10 scale. EWG verified products CANNOT contain this ingredient due to higher risk for allergies and immunotoxicity. Classified as toxic or harmful.
CITRIC ACID
ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE CON = HIGHLY COMEDOGENIC (likely to cause breakouts on prone skin). Considering this is a face serum, probably no the best choice. However, it rates as Level 1 EWG Certified for safety. Purpose: an emollient (saturated fatty ester) derived from ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid which is designed to soften your skin.
CAPRYLYL GLYCOL an alcohol derived from caprylic acid —a fatty acid found in the milk of some mammals, as well as palm and coconut oils. The caprylyl glycol in your skin care products may come from plants, but it could also be chemically produced. It’s a humectant, a skin conditioner if you will, —–it improves product texture and makes formulas more spreadable, which allows you to apply them more evenly across your skin for better coverage. Level 1 for safety on skin-deep scale.
XANTHAN GUM thickener (used in foods and cosmetics)
SODIUM HYALURONATE hyaluronic acid
CHONDRUS CRISPUS POWDER Otherwise known as Irish Moss (red algae) This powder extract offers hydrating properties that improve the texture of the skin.
ADENOSINE This one scares me. A medicine that dilates the arteries of the heart an d increase blood flow to help identify CAD (coronary artery disease). WHAT?? Adenosine “may have anti-aging, soothing, repairing, and restoring properties” PURPOSE: decrease wrinkles by energizing the skin’s surface, providing a smoother, more youthful appearance. OK, still not sure how I feel about this one.
LACTIC ACID an organic acid produced via fermentation. It assists in cell respiration, glucose production, and molecule signaling. PURPOSE: brightens dullness, makes skin appear firmer, improve texture (smoothen out) and collagen production. WARNING you don’t want to mix RETINOL, enzymes, AHA’s or BHA’s with this ingredient.
SACCHARIDE ISOMERATE a complex mixture of hydrating corn-derived sugars which have moisture-binding properties (humectant).
1,2-HEXANEDIOL An emollient and clear viscous liquid used as humectant, filler, solvent, preservative, thickener and conditioning agent. WHEW!!!! Rate Level 1 (mild) on skindeep.com RISKS = Has the ability to cross the skin barrier (and allow other chemicals along with it).
PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7 I am not a chemist. I merely found this information from INCI decoder, so here it is: “A four amino acid peptide with the amino sequence of glycine-glutamine-proline-arginine. It is attached to palmitic acid (a fatty acid) to increase oil solubility and skin penetration. It works by reducing the production of the signal molecule, interleukin-6 (IL-6) which promotes inflammation in the skin and less inflammation meansslower degradation of important things (like collagen) that results in younger looking skin for a longer time.
IL57A Honestly have no EFN idea what this is It may be related to a sunscreen related element, but unable to define!